Under the darkness of midnight in
Seketia, a farming village in western Ghana, cashew traders and middlemen go
knocking from door to door looking for supplies of harvested nuts.
"During
the peak harvest, they visit us late at night, trying to get us to sell," says David Enkamah, a cashew farmer.
Worldwide demand for cashew has grown
about 7% a year over the past decade on healthy snacking habits. The tree nut,
along with sesame seeds — favoured especially by the Japanese, South Koreans
and Chinese — and pigeon peas, a
common ingredient in Indian kitchens, are among a number of crops where the balance of power has tilted a little towards African farmers.
common ingredient in Indian kitchens, are among a number of crops where the balance of power has tilted a little towards African farmers.
Growers of cashew, buoyed by demand from
India and China as well as resurgent consumption in Europe and North America,
are among those defying the stereotype of smallholder farmers in developing
countries rendered powerless by the might of multinational companies and market
forces.
During the harvest season starting in
January, 30 to 40 agents and traders looking for supplies for processors and
exporters descend on Seketia. During the peak months of April and May, West
Africa, the world’s leading producer, is the scene of a scramble for farmer
loyalty. As a handful of growers in Seketia gather to discuss the current crop
and prices.
Mr Enkamah notes: "Even now, somebody might be contacting some of the farmers."
Far from accepting the first bid, Seketia
farmers wield cellphones to contact growers in other communities, pitching
offers against each other to get the best price. Buyers are also finding they
need to offer longer-term incentives.
About a third of the farmers in Seketia
work closely with Olam International, an agricultural trader in Singapore,
which is the world’s largest cashew dealer and processor. Olam is looking to
improve long-term relationships with the growers by providing them with
zero-interest loans and training.
"They
need to see there is a possibility of a livelihood in farming, and they can educate
their children,"
says Samir Kumar, head of cashew for Olam Ghana.
In spite of strong demand, farmers cannot
suddenly command high prices for their cashews, which compete with other tree
nuts. Annual income for many African cashew-farming households still total less
than $1,000.
About a third comes directly from the
tree nut, according to the African Cashew Initiative, which is backed by the
German government and co-ordinates public and private partnerships. Much of
Africa’s raw cashews are processed in India and Vietnam, but Olam is raising
its African processing capacity.
The company, which operates processing
plants in Cote d’Ivoire, Tanzania and Mozambique, believes that local
processing encourages loyalty among farmers who can see a ready market for
their crop. It also says the operations generate revenues for the wider
community, especially female factory workers.
To keep growers interested in supplying
cashews, buyers need to offer a balanced portion of the profit margins, says
Rita Weidinger, executive director of the cashew initiative. "Leaving the concept of fairness aside,
from a business model point of view, it’s just not sustainable," she
says.
But for all their efforts to nurture
long-term relations with the growers, Olam executives are quick to acknowledge
that price is king when negotiating with the cellphone-wielding farmers during
the harvest. "Of course, you need to
match the highest bidder," says Mr Kumar.
"You’ll
be fooling yourself if you think you can get away with offering lower prices
than your competitors."
Credit: Emiko Terazono
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